Sunday, March 11, 2007

Taco Hop Part II: Toro, toro, toro

The second installment of my multi-neighborhood taco hop was supposed to cover the many deli/taco grills in the little stretch of Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue that lies between West Harlem and Washington Heights--the one that, depending on which real estate agent you ask, has a new name every other month. But a small, happy complication arose: El Toro Partido. It's because of this place that I foresee at least three more trips to the neighborhood in the coming days.

El Toro Partido is a small storefront with room for about a dozen diners--and a rocking jukebox of Latin hits. There's a fairly standard menu of Mexico City-type offerings, and (to my surprise) a small Ecuadorian menu that I will have to go back for. But, for the moment, I had a different mission in mind.

The tacos at El Toro Partido are nothing particularly exotic--no pig ears here--although the menu did include beef tongue, cesina (salted beef), suadero (the lovely beef belly), and longaniza (a spicy pork sausage). I'm sorry to say that I did not try the pit the longaniza against the chorizo, as I would have loved to have learned a little more about the difference between the two, other than shape. (I've heard conflicting stories as to what makes the two different.) Indeed, I ended up having nothing but the tacos al suadero again, because--well, because they were that good.

To my great pleasure, the $2 taco was stuffed to the brim with juicy, well-grilled beef chunks (seriously, this could be the poor man's wagyu steak), beautifully pearly bits of diced onions, and a healthy sprinkle of fresh cilantro. Every leaf was in great shape, sporting just the right shade of green. It was served with a delicious green chile sauce that even featured a few avocado chunks. After just two tacos, I was already stuffed.

El Toro Partido (map)
3431 Broadway

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